Zig & Zag Sockulator
Posted on 03.09.06 by lucia @ 9:30 am
ZigZag.jpg

Here's a sockulator for both Zig and Zag socks. The two socks are almost identical. The only difference is the method used to work the double decreases. A 'zag' is pictured. I'm working on my Zig, and I'll show it to you soon! Meanwhile, you can knit either.

To knit either, you'll need these materials:

Needles: Set of five double-pointed needles that are appropriate for your yarn. I like to knit socks firmly, so you may want to use one needle size smaller than recommended for your yarn. You must knit a swatch to determine your gauge in stockinette.

Yarn: Any sock yarn you like provided the resulting pattern has at least 44 stitches to knit the chevron stitch pattern around the leg. I used 2 balls of Regia Crazy Color 50 grams= 125 meters. The sockulator will estimate your yardage.

Now, go ahead, fill out the sockulator and create your pattern.

Enter Gauge Information here.
Enter your stitch gauge in stockinette. Stitch Gauge: st/inch
Enter your row gauge in stockinette. Row Gauge: st/inch
If you don't want to knit a swatch and determine your row gauge, this guess is based on your stitch gauge. Row Gauge: st/inch


Note: 1) I recommend you pick a below the calf length. 2) There is a minimum sock length for this style of sock. I won't let you make it shorter than the sum of the length of the ribbing and the heel flap. If you want the minimum length, enter all other data first, then enter zero in the length box.
Design your sock
Select from the pulldown menu, then enter your show size in the box. The boxes below right will fill with your foot length and circumference.
US Shoe Size:
If you selected 'custom' from the pulldown menu, measure your foot length and that below.. Then measure the circumference and enter 90% of that value in the box for circumference.
Foot length: inches.
Sock foot circumference:
Zag
Enter ribbing length you want:
For these socks, I recommend 1/2" of ribbing. Ribbing Length: inches.
Sock length: inches

Directions:

Your two socks will require approximately yards -- meters.

Special note: Because you are knitting a chevron stitch, you need a large number of stitches compared to stockinette. If this sock were knit in stockinette at the gauge you entered, I'd be telling you to cast on approximately stitches.

Abbreviations:
  • L1 A= Lift 1 After; this creates a stitch.
  • L1B = Lift 1 Before; this creates a stitch.
  • PSSO = pass slipped stitch over previous stitch.
  • k2tog = knit 2 stitches together.
  • ImportantThe "|" indicates where the needle tips will be when working this stitch pattern on DPN's; when you reach that symbol, that's where you stop knitting on one needle and start knitting on the next one. That means that you will always work an L1A in below the stitch on the right needle tip, put the new stitch on the right tip. Now the left needle will be empty. Start knitting on the next needle. The L1A and L1B increases will eventually form a column that makes the "dip" in the chevron and you'll see a "column" form where I indicate the '|'.
  • DD = Double Decrease. These differ for the Zig and the Zag creating different decorative effects.
  • For a "Zag" the double increase (DD) is worked as follows: slip 1 stitch knitwise, k2tog, psso. This is illustrated in Double Decrease.
  • For a "Zig" the double increase (DD) is worked as follows: insert two stitches as though you are going to k2tog then slip them knitwise, k1, insert tip into both slipped stitches pass slipped stitches over knit stitch. This is illustrated in Another Double Decrease.
  • Special pattern stitches:

    Chevron Stitch:

    Your chevron pattern is worked over a multiple of stitches. For your chevron pattern, work rounds 1 and .

  • Round 1: Knit all stitches. Don't change needles yet. (You need to work the L1A in the based on the stitch on the right needle tip and leave that stitch on the right tip. Then start working on the next needle.)
  • Round 2A: *L1A,|, L1B, k, DD, k; repeat from * four times.
  • Round 2B: *L1A,|, k1, L1B, k, DD, k; repeat from * four times.
  • Note: When these socks are worked on DPNs, the needle tips should cross after the L1A. To keep the tip at that location, you must work the "L1" increase in the back (or side) of the loop of the stitch you worked on a previous (left hand) needle; after creating this stitch place it on the previous (left hand) needle. This is illustrated in Lifted Increase for Zag Socks.

    Warning: I have only knit a version following instuctions containing round 2B. I will eventually knit a pair in a different yarn weight to fine tune the instructions for 2A. (The calculations should be correct, but I will need to double check some specific instructions about organizing stitches when working the flap and gusset. The organization follows the principle: "keep the chevrons symmetric over the instep".)

    Heel Stitch:
    • Begin wrong side facing, working over stitches on this needle only (that is, the inside of the sock should face you.)
    • Row 1: Slip 1, then purl turn; right side now faces you. (I slip the first stitch as to purl.)
    • Row 2: * Slip 1, knit 1 repeat from *; turn. (Note, I slip first stitch as to knit, and all others as to purl.)
    • Repeat rows 1 and 2.

    Knitting Directions

    Leg:
    • Cast on stitches. Divide on four needles placing 1/4 of the stitches on each needle. Join.
    • Ribbing: Knit 2 x 2 ribbing for inches.
    • On next round, knit 1 stitch, then begin knitting following the directions for row 1 the chevron stitch pattern, but increase stitches evenly -- stitches. After increasing, distribute so 1/4th of stitches are on each needle; the first stitch on each needle will correspond to the first stitch in the chevron pattern repeat.
    • Leg: Knit in chevron pattern stitch until length measures inches from cast on, end by completing a "row 2" type round.
    • (Note, to be sure both socks are the same length, you may wish to note the number or rounds knit.)
    Heel Flap: Note: After working one preparation row, heel flap is knit in "Heel Stitch" begin wrong side facing.
    • Work up to the '|' symbol in the next round of the chevron stitch. If you are working a "row2B" type pattern, knit 1 more stitch. Place the stitches just knit on a stitch holder. These will be the instep stitches are not worked for the time being.
    • Collect the remaining stitches on one needle. You will begin knitting rows back and forth over these stitches only.
    • Prep/ Decrease row: Right side facing. Knit all stitches on working needles, decreasing evenly by sprinkling in a few k2togs -- stitches remain. Turn work.
    • Start working heel stitch beginning with row 1 of the heel stitch pattern. Work pairs of rows times; end after a knit row. (The heel flap will measure approximately inches in length.)
    Turn the heel:
    • 1st row: slip 1, purl , p2tog, p1; turn; ( stitches will remain on the left hand needle when you turn.)
    • 2nd row: slip 1, knit , ssk, k1; turn; ( stitches will remain on the left hand needle when you turn.)
    • 3rd row: slip 1, purl , p2tog; p1; turn; ( stitches will remain on the left hand needle.)
    • 4th row: slip 1, knit ssk, k1; turn; ( stitches will remain on the left hand needle.)
    • Continue working pairs of rows in pattern established until stitches remain on the left hand needle when you would need to turn.
    • If one stitch remained on the left needle when you needed to turn after the knit row, work another pair of rows, but skip the extra knit or purl after the decrease. (That is, end with an ssk on the knit row and a p2Tog on the purl row. You'll be forced to do this because that stitch won't be there!)
    • You should now have stitches on your needle.
    Pick up stitches for Gusset:
    • With knit side facing, the yarn is dangling on the left side of the heel flap. Call the needle holding the flap stitches needle "0".
    • Pick Up Stitches: With another needle, knit up stitches along the left side of heel flap; (you will be picking up one stitch for every slipped stitch on the edge). Call the needle holding the stitches you picked up "needle 1".
    • With another needle, knit across the stitches you set aside for the instep. Call the needle holding these stitches needle 2. (This is working a "row 1" type row in chevron pattern.)
    • With another needle, pick up stitches along the other side of the heel flap. Call this needle 3.
    • Now, still using the fourth needle, knit stitches off needle "0". (You have reached the center of the heel. I like to hang a safety pin or string to mark this.) Now, slide the stitches still on needle "0" to needle "1".
    • If you are knitting pattern "B", slip 1 stitch from each edge of needle two to needles 1 and 3 -- stitches on needle 2.
    Decrease for Gusset:
    • Round 1:
      1. Needle 1: knit to last 2 stitches; k2tog.
      2. Needle 2: knit stitches in row 2 of chevron pattern, as established. (The first stitch on needle 2 will be an L1B. )
      3. Needle 3: SSK. Knit to end of needle.
    • Round 2:
      1. Knit all stitches on Needles 1 and 3, work stitches on needle 2 in chevron pattern.
    • Repeat these two rows until stitches remain. Afterwards, work even in pattern established, but slip the final stitch on needle 1 and the first stitch on needle 2 every other round. This will create a decorative line coming out of the gussett.
    Foot:
    • Work until foot measures inches measured from the point where you picked up the stitches on the side of the heel flap.
    • If you are working a "row2B" type chevron, slip edge stitches on needles 1 and 3 back onto needle 2.
    • On next round, knit all stitches, but decrease stitches evenly over the instep stitches on needle 2 -- stitches remain on needle 2.
    • Knit all stitches in every round until foot measures inches measured from the point where you picked up the stitches on the heel. (The toe adds inches to the foot; the heel turn adds inches.)
    Toe:
    • First row:
      1. Needle 1: knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
      2. Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
      3. Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end of row.
    • Second round: knit all stitches.
    • Repeat last two rows until stitches remain. Knit stitches from first needle onto third needle . You will then have stitches on each of two needles.
    • Graft the two sets of stitches together to finish the toe.
    Finishing: Tidy up, make second sock, wear.


    Please leave comments! 9 Comments

    9 Comments »

    1. Thank you so much – this will be bookmarked – I know what I’m making Zadok A G S for Christmas this year!

      Comment by Anne — 3/9/2006 @ 10:29 am

    2. wow, that is impressive! I am bookmarking it also. Thanks

      Comment by Isela — 3/9/2006 @ 10:37 am

    3. Mwa! (that’s a big kiss) THANK YOU!!!!

      Comment by Sachi — 3/9/2006 @ 11:12 am

    4. I am so excited!!!!!!!! Thank you girlfriend!

      Comment by Dee — 3/9/2006 @ 1:40 pm

    5. i am starting to dye superwash sock yarns….wanna sample?

      Comment by natasha — 3/10/2006 @ 11:12 pm

    6. Okay, swatch done and measurements have been imput and the printer is humming! I’ll let you know how it goes…thank you Lucia you are marvelous.

      Comment by Dee — 3/11/2006 @ 4:39 pm

    7. [...] Next up are socks in Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sport. I’m going to try the Zig-Zag sockulater at the Knitting Fiend to make a Jaywalker like sock. None of my stash of sock yarn matches the Jaywalker pattern’s gauge and I don’t really know how to modify it. I’ll be trying to do it 2 socks on 2 circs, top down. Wish me luck. [...]

      Pingback by Inspired Procrastination » You Never Write, You Never Call… — 3/16/2006 @ 11:11 pm

    8. OOH these are pretty socks! I must try them! You know, If I were to bookmark the patterns on your page I like I would have all your generators bookmarked! LOL in fact I think I might be getting close!
      Thank you soooo much for all of your generators/calculators!

      Comment by Cindy in SK, Canada — 2/7/2007 @ 5:42 pm

    9. [...] Violet Green Zig Zag Socks Pattern •    Lucia’s Zig & Zag Sockulator (sock calculator) •    Sherman (Short Row) Heel numbers from hipknitism •    Shaping [...]

      Pingback by Zig-Zag Socks with Short Row Heel « QC Tester Hobbies: Sustainable Excellence — 5/6/2007 @ 5:01 pm

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